BROTHER M343D
A 3- or 4-thread overlocker with differential feed. As you sew, the knife trims the fabric edge and the overlock stitch overcasts it.
The knife can be retracted when the fabric edge does not need trimming. The threads follow a colour-coded thread path, and a separate lever helps with threading the lower looper.
With the bed extension removed, the machine has a free arm, which makes tubular pieces easier to sew. The machine weighs 5.6 kg.
Features
Colour-coded thread path
Each thread path is marked with its own colour: yellow for the left needle, pink for the right needle, green for the upper looper and blue for the lower looper. The tension dials carry the same colours.
Before threading, raise the telescoping thread tree to its highest position so that the thread holders on it sit directly above the spool pins. The manual gives this threading order: lower looper, upper looper, right needle, left needle.
Lower looper threading lever
A lever helps with threading the lower looper. With the needle at its highest position, slide the lower looper threading lever to the right and the looper moves to the position shown in the manual. After passing the thread through the looper eye, turn the handwheel slowly until the lever returns to its original position.
The manual warns that the lever must only be moved in the direction of the arrow; forcing it in any other direction may damage it.
Stitch length, width and differential feed
Stitch length is set with the dial on the right side of the body: 2 to 4 mm, normal setting 3 mm. Stitch width is changed with a separate dial: 5 to 7 mm, normal setting 5 mm.
Under the presser foot there are two sets of feed dogs: front (differential) and rear (main). The differential feed dial, at the bottom right of the body, changes the ratio between them from 0.7 to 2.0. A setting of 1.0 is normal. Below 1.0 the front feed dogs move more slowly than the rear ones, so the fabric is stretched as it is sewn and thin fabric does not pucker. Above 1.0 the front feed dogs move faster, so the fabric is gathered and stretch fabric does not ripple or stretch. The more elastic the fabric, the further the dial should be turned towards 2.0. Test the setting on a scrap of the fabric. Do not use differential feed on thick non-stretch fabric such as denim: Brother warns that it may damage the fabric.
More features
Presser foot pressure adjustment
- The pressure is set with the screw at the top left of the machine; the pressure value can be read on the screw.
- The normal setting is “2”.
- If the fabric does not feed, the manual says to turn the screw clockwise to increase the pressure.
Changeable presser foot
- The standard presser foot comes off when you press the button on the holder.
- Another foot is placed under the holder so that the groove in the holder catches the bar on top of the foot, and it is secured by lowering the presser foot lever.
- Switch the machine off or unplug it before changing the foot.
Changing needles
- Needles are changed with the included hex driver.
- First switch the machine off and turn the handwheel until the mark on it is aligned with the line on the machine.
- Then loosen the set screw of the corresponding needle and remove the needle.
- Hold the new needle with its flat side away from you, insert it as far as it will go and tighten the screw securely.
- If the needles are inserted correctly, the right needle sits slightly lower than the left one.
LED light
- The machine has an LED light.
- It is switched on with the same main power and light switch as the machine.
- The manual states that a damaged LED light unit must be replaced by an authorised dealer.
Accessory storage
- Behind the front cover is a compartment for the included accessories and the removed “stitch finger”.
- The manual shows the needle set, tweezers and hex driver stored in it.
- The cover slides to the right to open; it must be closed while the machine is running, and the machine must be switched off before it is opened.
Trim trap (optional)
- The optional trim trap collects the trimmed fabric and thread.
- It can also be used as the foot controller holder; remove the foot controller from the trap when carrying the machine.
Foot controller and speed control
- Press the foot controller lightly and the machine sews at a low speed; press further and the speed increases; release it and the machine stops.
- The maximum speed is 1300 stitches per minute, while an ordinary sewing machine usually sews 300–800 stitches per minute.
Thread chain at the start and end of a seam
- The overlocker forms a thread chain at the start and end of a seam.
- According to the manual, when the seam is finished you keep the machine running slowly so that the chain forms, then cut the threads 5 cm from the work.
- The chain can be secured in two ways: sew over it with the machine and trim the remainder with the knife after a few stitches, or thread it into the end of the seam with a large-eye hand needle, fix it with a drop of fabric glue and trim the excess once it is dry.
Removable bed extension and free arm
- With the bed extension removed, the machine has a free arm, which makes tubular pieces easier to sew.
Retractable knife
- The knife can be retracted when the edge does not need trimming.
- The knife lever may only be moved while the needle is at its lowest point, and the power cord must be unplugged first.
- Do not touch the knife.
- Do not leave pins in the fabric while sewing: the manual warns that they can damage the needles or the knives.
Handwheel
- The handwheel turns counterclockwise, the same direction as on an ordinary home sewing machine.
- The needles reach their highest position when the mark on the handwheel is aligned with the line on the machine.
Narrow overlock and rolled hem
- These are decorative or edge-finishing stitches for lightweight to midweight fabrics.
- For these stitches, the left needle and the “stitch finger” are removed, the machine is threaded as for a 3-thread overlock using the right needle, and the stitch width dial is set to “R”.
- With the stitch length dial at “R” you get a rolled hem, and from “R” to 2 a narrow overlock stitch.
- For fine fabrics, the presser foot pressure should be adjusted so that the fabric does not pucker and curves can be sewn, and the thread tension loosened; if the tension is too loose, the thread may break and stitches may be skipped.
- Reinstall the “stitch finger” before sewing ordinary overlock stitches.
Blind stitch foot
- Brother offers an optional blind stitch foot.
- It lets you sew a blind stitch and overlock the edge at the same time.
- The manual lists cuffs, trouser bottoms, pockets and hemming skirts as uses.
- The guide on the foot is also useful for flat lock, pin tuck and other decorative stitches.
Spool caps, spool nets and decorative thread
- When you use spools of ordinary sewing thread, fit a spool cap with the spool notch at the bottom.
- If you sew with loosely spun nylon thread, the manual recommends covering the spool with the supplied net so that the thread does not slip off; adapt the net to the shape of the spool.
- The set includes 4 nets and 4 caps.
- For fashion sewing, the manual advises putting decorative thread in the upper looper.
Maintenance
- According to the manual, oil the machine before first use and, in normal use, once or twice a month (once a week with heavier use) after removing lint; clean dust with the included brush.
Motor and ventilation openings
- During continuous operation the motor area warms up, but the manual says this does not affect performance.
- Keep fabric and paper away from the air openings at the back and sides of the machine so that air can reach them.
- While the motor runs, sparks may be visible through the openings in the motor bracket on the side opposite the handwheel; the manual says they are produced by the carbon brushes and the commutator and are part of normal operation.
Machine parts
Drawing from the official Brother operation manual.
In the figure: 1 – thread tree, 2 – thread plate, 3 – presser foot pressure adjustment screw, 4 – spool pin, 5 – spool support, 6 – thread take-up cover, 7 – needles, 8 – bed extension, 9 – presser foot, 10 – material plate cover, 11 – left needle thread tension dial, 12 – right needle thread tension dial, 13 – upper looper thread tension dial, 14 – lower looper thread tension dial, 15 – front cover, 16 – presser foot lifting lever, 17 – main power and light switch, 18 – stitch length adjustment dial, 19 – hand wheel, 20 – differential feed ratio adjustment dial, 21 – stitch width dial, * – air openings (on the side and back).
Stitches
The manual describes eight stitches: five standard ones and three that need the optional blind stitch foot. The blind hem and the 3-thread flat lock are sewn with the blind stitch foot and the left needle, with the right needle removed. The 3-thread flat lock is not suitable for thin fabrics.
- 4-thread overlock stitch – a strong seam, suitable for knits and wovens
- 3-thread wide overlock stitch, 5 mm (left needle, right needle removed) – for suits, blouses and trousers; suits medium to heavy fabrics
- 3-thread narrow overlock stitch, 2.8 mm (right needle, left needle removed) – for suits, blouses and trousers; suits fine to medium fabrics
- Narrow overlock stitch, 2.0 mm – decorative or edge-finishing stitch
- Rolled hem, 2.0 mm – decorative or edge-finishing stitch
- Blind hem stitch (with the optional blind stitch foot)
- 3-thread flat lock (with the optional blind stitch foot)
- Pin tuck (with the optional blind stitch foot)
Stitch settings from the manual
| Stitch | Threads and needles | Stitch width | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4-thread overlock stitch | 4 threads, left and right needles | 5–7 mm | 2–4 mm |
| 3-thread wide overlock stitch | 3 threads, left needle (right needle removed) | 5 mm | 2–4 mm |
| 3-thread narrow overlock stitch | 3 threads, right needle (left needle removed) | 2.8 mm | 2–4 mm |
| Narrow overlock stitch | 3 threads, right needle; left needle and “stitch finger” removed | 2.0 mm (“R”) | “R” to 2 mm |
| Rolled hem | 3 threads, right needle; left needle and “stitch finger” removed | 2.0 mm (“R”) | “R” |
| Blind hem stitch | 3 threads, left needle (right needle removed), blind stitch foot | 5 mm | 3–4 mm |
| 3-thread flat lock | 3 threads, left needle (right needle removed), blind stitch foot; not for thin fabrics | 5 mm | 2–4 mm |
| Pin tuck | As for the narrow overlock stitch, with the blind stitch foot | “R” | “R” to 2 mm |
Fabrics, threads and needles
| Fabric | Stitch | Stitch length, mm | Thread | Needle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fine (e.g. georgette, lawn, organdy, tricot) | Overlock stitch | 2.0–3.0 | Spun No. 80–90, cotton No. 100 or “Tetron” No. 80–100 | 130/705H No. 80 |
| Fine (same fabrics) | Narrow overlock and rolled hem | R–2.0 | Needle thread: spun No. 80–90 or “Tetron” No. 80–100. Looper thread: woolly nylon, spun No. 80–90 or “Tetron” No. 80–100 | 130/705H No. 80 |
| Medium (e.g. broadcloth, gabardine, serge) | Overlock stitch | 2.5–3.5 | Spun No. 60–80, cotton No. 60–80 or “Tetron” No. 60–80 | 130/705H No. 80 or No. 90 |
| Medium (broadcloth) | Narrow overlock and rolled hem | R–2.0 | Needle thread: spun No. 60–80 or “Tetron” No. 60–80. Looper thread: woolly nylon, spun No. 60–80 or “Tetron” No. 60–80 | 130/705H No. 80 or No. 90 |
| Heavy (e.g. tweed, denim, knits) | Overlock stitch | 3.0–4.0 | Cotton No. 50–60, spun No. 60 or “Tetron” No. 50–60 | 130/705H No. 90 |
Videos
The first video is official, from Brother SewingCraft Europe. The second was published by another author (Sewing in Switzerland), not by Brother.
Technical specifications
| Fabrics | Fine to heavy |
|---|---|
| Maximum sewing speed | 1300 stitches/min |
| Stitch width | 5–7 mm (dial range); 2.3–7 mm in the manual's table |
| Stitch length | 2–4 mm, normal setting 3 mm; narrow overlock “R” to 2.0 mm, rolled hem “R” |
| Differential feed ratio | 0.7–2.0, normal setting 1.0 |
| Needle bar stroke | 25 mm |
| Presser foot lift | 5–6 mm |
| Presser foot | Standard presser foot, changed with the holder button |
| Presser foot pressure | Adjustable, normal setting “2” |
| Thread tension | Four colour-marked dials: yellow for the left needle, pink for the right needle, green for the upper looper, blue for the lower looper. Most sewing is done at “4” (standard thread SPAN 60/3Z). Heavy tension is 4–7, light 4–2 and medium 5–3. |
| Seam allowance guide scale | 9.5, 12.7, 15.9 and 25.4 mm when the stitch width dial is set to “5” |
| Needles | Standard home sewing machine needle 130/705H; No. 80 or No. 90 recommended. To reduce fabric damage, the manual suggests a 130/705H SUK No. 90 ball point needle. When correctly installed, the right needle sits slightly lower than the left. |
| Threads and needles | 3 or 4 threads (convertible); one or two needles |
| Weight | 5.6 kg |
| Dimensions (W × D × H) | 33.5 × 28.2 × 29.6 cm |
| Country of origin | Taiwan |
| Intended use | Household use (according to the Brother manual) |
| Warranty | 3 years |
In the box
In the box according to the Brother operation manual; the manual notes that the included accessories may vary by model.
- Soft cover
- Accessory bag
- Tweezers
- Spool nets (4 pcs)
- Thread spool caps (4 pcs)
- Cleaning brush
- Hex driver
- Needle set 130/705H (No. 80 – 2 pcs, No. 90 – 2 pcs)
- Foot controller (with power cord)
- Instruction DVD
Included accessories drawing
Drawing from the official Brother operation manual; the manual notes that the included accessories may vary by model.
In the figure: 1 – soft cover, 2 – accessory bag, 3 – tweezers, 4 – spool nets (4 pcs), 5 – thread spool caps (4 pcs), 6 – cleaning brush, 7 – hex driver, 8 – needle set 130/705H (No. 80 – 2 pcs, No. 90 – 2 pcs), 9 – foot controller with power cord, 10 – instruction DVD.
Optional accessories
Depending on the set, some of these accessories may already be in the box. List compiled from the Brother operation manual and the Brother support page section 'Consumables & Options' for this model.
- Wide table SERGERWT2 – for better fabric handling during sewing
- Blind stitch foot SA214 – lets you sew a blind stitch and overlock the edge at the same time; the manual lists cuffs, trouser bottoms, pockets and hemming skirts as uses
- Gathering foot SA213 – lets you gather fabric for various garments and home decorating projects; the manual gives these test-sewing settings: stitch length 3 mm, stitch width 5 mm, differential feed ratio 2
- Pearls and sequins foot SA211 – lets you sew a sequence of pearls onto fabric; the manual calls it the “Pearl sequence foot” and gives pearl sequences of 3–5 mm, while the Brother support page gives pearls and sequins up to 5 mm in diameter; the manual mentions decorating the edges of curtains, tablecloths and dresses
- Piping foot SA210 – lets you sew piping into the edge of the fabric; the manual mentions decorating the edges of pyjamas and sportswear, furniture covers, cushions and bags
- Taping (elastic) foot SA212 – lets you sew a tape or elastic and hem the edge at the same time; the manual gives a width of 6–12 mm for tapes and elastics; attaching tape is useful for reinforcing the shoulders of stretch knitted garments, and attaching elastic suits cuffs and necklines
- Trim trap – listed as an optional accessory in the manual; collects the trimmed fabric and thread and can also be used as the foot controller holder
Manuals
Any questions?
Call +370 685 85915 or email info@siuvimomanija.lt. We will help you check whether this overlocker is right for your work.